The present invention concerns new cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions for topical use aimed at preventing the symptoms of skin slackening, and more particularly intended for the treatment of visible signs of ageing and fatigue, especially “bags” and “circles” under the eyes, which contain, in a cosmetically acceptable base, a combination of at least two, and preferably three, constituents chosen from among:
a) hesperidin or hesperidin derivatives,
b) dipeptides that inhibit the enzyme ACE (angiotensin converting enzyme EC 3.4.15.1), particularly ones chosen from those containing the sequence H-Val-Trp-OR1, H-Val-Tyr-OR1, H-His-Tyr-OR1, H-Arg-Phe-OR1, H-Tyr-Trp-OR1, with R1═H or a C1 to C24 alkyl chain, preferably either C1 to C3 or C14 to C18, or with R1═NR2R3 where R2 and R3 independently of each other are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and
c) oligopeptides R2-(AA)n-Pro-Arg OH where (AA)n is a peptide chain, (AA) being any amino acid or any derivative of any amino acid and “n” being between 1 and 3, while R2═H or an alkoyl chain between 2 and 22 carbons in length.
Skin is the immediate outward characteristic that we present to the outside world, and its appearance has always been a subject of preoccupation.
Current knowledge of skin physiology now makes it possible to propose cosmetic solutions to a variety of dysfunctions induced by external aggressive agents or by ageing. Many aspects are nevertheless still unknown, poorly understood, and badly managed.
This is the case, for example, with the symptom commonly called “bags under the eyes” or “puffy eyes”. This skin condition below the eyes, characterized by a degree of swelling, often irritation, flaccidity of the skin, and redness, does not have a clearly defined aetiology well described in the literature.
While in certain cases hypothyroidism is evoked, in others a connection is established between allergy leading to rhinitis and retention of water in parts of the face (nose, eyes, sinuses, and adjacent areas). Fatigue, excessive smoking, and the associated skin irritation phenomena also contribute to the appearance of “bags”. A general examination of the literature on the subject reveals connections between inflammation, oedema, and water retention/sodium balance, disturbances in lymph drainage, and venous insufficiency combined with capillary fragility. Age and slackening of the cutaneous tissues, which are particularly thin around the eyes, also of course play a role.
Though it is often neglected, the quality of lymphatic circulation is one of the major factors allowing the skin to maintain its aesthetic and physiological characteristics (see, for example, Lubach et al., Br. J. Dermatol., 135 (1996) 733-737; Brand and Braathen, Dermatology, 196 (1996) 283-288). Within the organism, the lymphatic system has a variety of complex functions, which cover domains such as nutrition or immunology.
As far as this patent application is concerned, as a theoretical physiological approach, one may consider schematically that the lymphatic system is a drainage system, which regulates various physiological fluids, collecting the excess amounts of extracellular fluid and its contents to promote their return to the bloodstream (approximately 3 litres per day).
The system is made up of three distinct elements: capillaries situated in the extracellular spaces, lymph nodes and vessels.
The collection of extracellular fluids takes place in the capillaries. The capillary walls are made of mutually overlapping endothelial cells. Under the pressure of extracellular fluid, these overlapping cells tip slightly towards the interior, like revolving doors, which turn in only one direction. The fluid entering the capillary cannot go back. Subsequently a succession of valves along the lymphatic system prevents reflux of lymph back towards the capillaries. Lymph is a clear fluid, whose composition is close to that of blood with the exception of the red corpuscles, which transports lymphocytes, nutrients, hormones, and metabolites. Lymph is not pumped like blood, but circulates in the lymphatic system as a result of squeezing of the lymphatic vessels by the surrounding muscles. Via specific receptors, the regulation of lymph circulation is under the control of numerous neuromediators such as bradykinin, which act both on the frequency and on the intensity of contractions propelling lymph by peristaltic action within the lymphatic system. It is thus possible to correct dysfunctions (in frequency and/or intensity) in this lymph peristalsis by pharmacological measures (see, for example, Yokoyama and Benoit, Am. J. Physiol., 270 (1996) G752-756).
Many cosmetic compositions intended to improve the appearance of facial skin have now been proposed, including moisturizers, antiwrinkle creams, and irritation-soothing lotions. To our knowledge none of them has addressed the problem of “bags under the eyes” in a systematic and concerted manner, acting at several levels on both causes and symptoms at the same time.
The aim of the present invention is to resolve the aesthetic problem posed by these “bags” by acting simultaneously on water retention, inflammation, capillary fragility, and slackening of the cutaneous tissues by a synergistic combination of three active substance categories, namely hesperidins, peptide inhibitors of angiotensin I and angiotensin II converting enzyme, and immunomodulating peptides, immunoglobulin fragments.
Thus, in accordance with one of the objectives of the present invention, new cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions are now proposed, in particular for the care of the skin of the face, which are essentially characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable base, at least two, and preferably three, active substances chosen from among:
a) hesperidin or hesperidin derivatives,
b) dipeptides that inhibit the enzyme ACE (angiotensin converting enzyme EC 3.4.15.1), particularly ones chosen from those containing the sequence H-Val-Trp-OR1, H-Val-Tyr-OR1, H-His-Tyr-OR1, H-Arg-Phe-OR1, H-Tyr-Trp-OR1, with R1═H or a C1 to C24 alkyl chain, preferably either C1 to C3 or C14 to C18, or with R1═NR2R3 where R2 and R3 independently of each other are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and c) oligopeptides R2-(AA)n-Pro-Arg 011 where (AA)n is a peptide chain, (AA) being any amino acid or any derivative of any amino acid and “n” being between 1 and 3, while R2═H or an alkoyl chain between 2 and 22 carbons in length.
Another objective of the present invention is the use of such compositions as, or for the production of, cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions intended for face care, and in particular for the treatment of bags and circles under the eyes.
Yet another objective of the present invention is a process of cosmetic treatment of the skin of the face, in particular of bags and circles under the eyes, which consists essentially of applying to the regions in question an effective amount of a composition in accordance with the invention. Certain other characteristics, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will emerge from the detailed description given below.